東京 yay

Couple things in Tokyo that are quite awesome:

  • The Museum of Contemporary Art of Tokyo, with a fresh, engaging permanent collection — even though the entourage was meh, this was easily the best modern art museum we visited there. In addition, there was a temporary exhibition: +/- [the infinite between 0 and 1] by Ryoji Ikeda. Ikeda explores huge arrays of numbers in a audiovisual way, technically executed to perfection. One of the works lives in a dark, large museum space where countless small numbers and stark black-and-white data visualizations are projected on a huge wall, accompanied with ethereal sound bordering on very minimal electronic music. It is big, completely overwhelming and technical, yet all of it exudes a very zen-like calm that inspires philosophical thoughts. Then, as you progress to the lower floor, there’s the black-and-white complete inverse, in a large room dressed all-white to sense-disorienting effect. Open through June 21, Ikeda’s exhibition is an absolute must-see.
  • Food, food, food. One specific example: sushi at a place called Misaki. A whole bunch of orders of very nice nigirizushi. Along with hot sake (which in Japan is called Nihonshu, 日本酒) and tea. To find the place, take the JR Yamanote to Takadanobaba, main exit, look for a restaurant with a blue sign with the name すしミ崎丸 (sushi misaki maru), on the opposite side of the road of the ‘Big Box’ building. It’ll be busy but they have a waiting list outside that you can write your name on. I’ve written my name as Tako (タコ) which happens to mean ‘octopus’, which of course lead to amusing confusion, this being a Sushi joint and all.
  • The fish market at Tsukiji is something of an experience. All guide books mention it so I won’t detail more but don’t skip this, be early, and have fish for breakfast afterwards. Counter to what I expected, this visit completely cured my hangover. 
  • The basement of Seibu (JR Yamamoto, Ikebukuro station) has amazing stuff for food lovers. From beautiful Bentō boxes to non-Japanese delicacies (cheeses, charcuterie) to succinctly wrapped honey melons (for a cool 60 euros a piece). (One of the many things Kat, resident Japanophile and Tokyo expert, pointed out to me)
  • A gazillion other things. Checkout Japan Guide. Or better, buy a plane ticket.
  • Oh, did I mention they have a 7 floor building store dedication to just stationery? And that chairs in a train can, within a second, turn around en masse (while the doors are closed) to face the other direction? And that most Japanese homeless people dress better than most Dutch home-owning people? 
  • Finally, while recommending resources, let me mention Néojaponisme and Tokyo Damage Report — quite different but both worth your time.

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